Lost your water? Let's find out why.

When the tank's dry and the trough's empty, you don't need a lecture — you need water back. We've spent years chasing down why wells quit all over this ranch country, and most of the time the fix is smaller and cheaper than folks fear. Give us a call and we'll figure out what's wrong before we talk about what it costs.

When something's not right

Water trouble shows up in a handful of familiar ways. Any of these sound like your place, pick up the phone:

• No water at all — the tank's dry, the trough's empty, nothing's coming up the pipe.
• Low pressure or a weak stream — water's still coming, but it's a trickle where it used to be strong.
• The pump short-cycles — it kicks on and off every few seconds instead of running a proper cycle.
• The windmill's spinning but not pumping — the wheel turns in the wind, yet no water reaches the tank.
• A tripped breaker or pressure switch — the pump keeps kicking the breaker, or the switch won't hold.
• Air spitting or dirty water — sputtering at the faucet, or sand and grit where there wasn't any.

How we track it down

We start at the top and work down the hole. That means checking the obvious first — power, the pressure switch, the tank's air charge — before anything gets pulled. A lot of "dead pump" calls turn out to be a bad switch, a waterlogged tank or a tripped breaker, and there's no sense pulling two hundred feet of pipe to find that out. When the trouble really is down the well, we pull it, look at it, and show you exactly what failed.

What we repair

We work across every kind of water system on a Central Texas place, whether we set it or somebody else did:

• Windmills — leathers, cylinders, gearboxes, sucker rod, drop pipe, tower work and the brake and tail gear up top.
• Submersible pumps — motors, controls, wiring, pressure switches, tanks and the pump itself, pulled and reset.
• Line-shaft turbines — bearings, shafting, column and bowl assemblies on the deeper and higher-volume wells.
• Solar pump systems — panels, controllers, wiring and the pump down the hole when the water quits on a sunny day.
• Pressure & storage — pressure tanks, switches, check valves and the plumbing between the well and the house.

Repair it, or replace it — honestly

Every well owner eventually faces the same question, and we'll give you a straight answer instead of a sales pitch. Often the old rig is worth fixing — the parts are still made, the tower and casing are sound, and a repair puts water back for a fraction of a new setup. Other times you've replaced the same worn-out part three times and it's throwing good money after bad, or the site's changed and a submersible or a solar pump in the same hole just makes more sense. We've done all of it, and we'll tell you which one belongs on your place — even when the honest answer is the cheaper one.